Cinque Terre - Five Reasons to Return

There are those who will testify, cursing certain guidebook writers in the same breath, that not long ago Cinque Terre was a secluded haven known only to Italians and few other Europeans. The five villages, as the tale goes, once offered quiet, intimate experiences at non-touristy prices; and along the uncongested trails, one could pass an entire morning in almost pastoral bliss, with only the placid sea and verdant hillside as company. 

Whether mythical or not, this version of Cinque Terre is difficult to imagine today. Awaiting a connection at La Spezia, visitors occupy virtually every meter of free space. Hoards of American college students spill out of the tourism office, merging with a French tour group to form a noisy, chaotic mass, and swelling our train car to well beyond maximum capacity. Experiences, all, to dampen any hopes for a peaceful weekend retreat. 

Yet, travelers take heart. While mainstream tourism, in all its manifestations—the inflated prices and lengthy queues, those odious laminated menus in multiple languages—has undeniably infiltrated here, this magical spot on the Ligurian coast nonetheless merits a visit. Its special appeal, difficult to put down to one particular word, must simply be experienced to be appreciated. And “doing” Cinque Terre has become so streamlined, requiring little more than a bankcard, a backpack and comfortable shoes, that with little planning you can set out after breakfast and arrive in time for lunch. Here’s just a taste of what awaits in the idyllic “five lands”: