Sure Bette: New Leaf Cafe in New York

Bette Midler’s bet on the now 4-year-old New Leaf Café, the restaurant her environmental non-profit, New York Restoration Project, created in a charming 1930’s country cottage-style stone building, has more than paid off. The eatery, under the seasoned palette and artistic eye of Chef James Bellichi, formerly of Grammercy Tavern, has won a culinary trifecta. Last month the bistro-style eatery earned a spot in the premiere North American publication of the prestigious Michelin 2006 Restaurant and Hotel guide (one of only two restaurants above 96th Street to do so), adding to growing accolades, including continued high marks in the Zagat’s guides and rave reviews from proud Northern Manhattanites who love to show off their neighborhood to family and out-of-town friends by bringing them here for a meal and the view.

And as if its idyllic location, amongst gardens and tailored lawns in Fort Tryon Park, just a short stroll from the Cloisters museum, and the fact that profits go to upkeep of Northern Manhattan’s crowned park were not reward enough, the food is quite good, service is friendly and knowledgeable and the ambiance delightful.

The Sunday evening we visited was unexpectedly crowded with after-concert guests from the Cloisters, so the mood was lively with chatter and big band jazz playing in the background.

The dark woodwork, soothing green walls and vaulted high ceilings make for romantic dining lit by candles and amber-hued art paper sconces and hanging light fixtures that double as interesting organic sculpture.

Of the three appetizers we sampled, our favorite was the fried haricot verts, lightly battered, tempura-style green beans served with a lemon garlic aoli for dipping. Fried quickly at high heat in a light oil, the beans maintained their bright green color and appealing fresh crunch. They seemed a healthy and fun alternative to French fries.

Always suckers for goat cheese we devoured our Coach Farm Croquette served with roasted baby beets, tiny orange sections, truffle vinaigrette, and a beet reduction.