Sushi Magic: Boston's 711 Underground Bistro and Sushi Bar

I've always considered sushi to be an acquired taste, a sort of delicacy that few fall in love with at first bite. So it was quite a surprise when my dining partner-a vehement sushi abstainer-sheepishly ended up devouring half my plate of the previously dubbed "icky raw fish stuff," while dining at the sleek 711 Underground Bistro and Sushi Bar. I was impressed. These folks obviously know how to make the most of their culinary wiles, converting the seafood shy into sushi revelers. Their secret? An impressive Pan-Asian menu capable of seducing both the sushi novice and aficionado. (And, in the case of my brave dining partner, it was the mayo-yes, the mayonnaise in the sushi-that had him hooked.)

Occupying the cozy underground space that was once Jae's restaurant, 711 Bistro opened its doors relatively recently and has been creating a rising buzz ever since. My first visit-a Thursday evening in mid-June-was a quiet one, with only a few patrons seated in the dining room. In comparison, on my most recent visit-another Thursday evening in early August-I found myself enmeshed within a lively, packed crowd, with live jazz entertainment in the background. It's clear they must be doing something right.

That "something" can be attributed, in part, to general manager Andrew Trombly, a young yet savvy veteran of the restaurant industry. Throughout our meal, I watched him dart around the dining room with an energetic ease, and it was apparent that his attentive, hands-on approach was an effective one.