The Glacier Express - Train Ride through the Swiss Alps

There are train rides, and then there's the Glacier Express. Switzerland's premiere train journey cuts a route through the craggy Alps from Zermatt to St. Moritz or vice versa, over eight hours.

Passing through some of the most stunning landscapes in Europe, the Glacier Express was recently listed in the top 20 train rides by the Society of International Railway Travelers. Numerous other surveys have placed it in the top ten.

At an average of only 22 miles per hour, calling her an "express" is just a bit misleading. On the other hand, you have ample time to relish every moment.

To make the most of my Alpine journey, I made a reservation on one of the special panorama cars available on the Glacier Express. Prior to my adventure on this famous train, I spent two rainy days in Lucerne, walking the wooden bridges, silently pondering the dying lion monument and photographing the medieval buildings in the old town.

Because I started out in Lucerne, I had to make my way to Zermatt to board the Glacier Express. I was understandably concerned when I found my route by rail from Lucerne to Zermatt required three changes of train. The second change allotted only a meager four minutes to disembark and find the right connection.

The friendly assistant at the information desk assured me the computer wouldn't spit out that particular itinerary, if the train changes were not humanly possible, so I went forth on faith. It is ever thus with travel...

One should trust computers, as I learned. At that stop we arrived one minute early and I rejoiced! I had gained an additional 60 seconds to find my train! With relief, I noted the small station only had four tracks. I hopped off, backpack in place, walked 16 paces give or take a step, and boarded the correct train with a full minute to spare.

My three train changes went smoothly, but I was eager to arrive in Zermatt. As it turned out, I would follow the same route, only in the opposite direction on the Glacier Express.

As you can easily tell from any Swiss map, this village is the end of the line, unless you're a serious climber. From there, the only direction is up, way up, or back down again by rail.