Using and Maintaining a Sewing Machine

A sewing machine uses two threads to sew a seam. One unwinds from a reel, lies on top of the fabric and is pushed through the fabric by the needle. On the underside, it loops through the second thread, which unwinds from a bobbin in the shuttle and runs under the fabric.

The tension draws the threads taut, so that the loop is centered between the layers of fabric, and the stitches on top and underneath are identical.

Choosing thread, needle and foot

Choose the thread and needle to suit the fabric. Use a cotton or silk thread for natural fibers such as cotton and linen; use silk or synthetic threads with woolens and a synthetic thread for man made fibers. One thickness of polyester thread suits most synthetics.

Cotton thread is made in a range of thicknesses - the higher the number on it, the finer the thread; 60-100 is for lightweight, 30-40 for heavy fabrics such as corduroy and toweling, and 20 for canvas. For upholstery fabric, use a strong thread such as flax, polyester, or heavy-duty cotton, or cotton wrapped polyester.

Use a sharp pointed needle on woven fabrics, a rounded tip on knitted fabrics and a wedge tip for vinyl or leather. Your machine manual will tell you which size to select. Generally, the sizes are : 70 metric for fine fabrics such as silk; 80 for normal use; 100 for heavy fabrics; and 110 for very thick fabrics. Round tips are 70 (lightweight), 80 (medium), and 100 (heavy); wedge tips are 70 (soft leather), 80 (medium) and 100 (very thick). Fit the needle as the manual indicates.

Fit the correct presser foot for the seam you are sewing. The foot fitted as standard is for straight seams - and sometimes zigzag seams. The range of alternative feet varies with the price of the machine; it may include feet for zippers, buttonholes, embroidery, over-sewing, invisible hemming, darning, narrow hems, stretch stitches and twin needles.

Threading and adjusting