Advice for Novice Pearl Shoppers: How to Choose and Grade Them

Like all gemstones, pearls have different qualities which can make them more beautiful and more valuable than others. Choosing pearls is difficult, however, if you do not know how to judge the value of a pearl by looking at it. As a professional in the jewelry industry, I can offer some simple and helpful advice on how to choose pearls for yourself or someone you love.

Saltwater vs. Freshwater Pearls

Saltwater pearls, or "Akoya" pearls are formed around a large round bead that is usually made from mother of pearl or shell. This is called a nucleus. The nucleus is inserted into the oyster along with a mantle which is a piece of flesh from another oyster. This mantle has a hormone in it which causes the oyster to secrete nacre (nay-cur), a natural product of the oyster that it uses to build its shell. This nacre covers the nucleus and the result is a pearl.

A saltwater pearl is a very thin layer of nacre over a large bead. Saltwater pearls are more difficult to produce and are more valuable than most freshwater pearls. This thin layer of nacre makes them more likely to peel than a freshwater pearl. Because they are only a thin layer of nacre over a large bead, they tend to come out nearly perfectly round.

They can be any shape at all, however, and without x-raying them, it is impossible to tell a saltwater pearl from a freshwater pearl. Tahitian pearls, Akoya pearls, Mikimoto pearls, and South Seas pearls are all saltwater varieties of pearls.

Freshwater pearls are usually made without a nucleus. They are solid pearl all the way to the center. Mussels are impregnated with a mantle and the mussel will secrete nacre which will form pearls of any shape or size. Freshwater pearls can be perfectly round or they can be more intriguing abstract shapes. Freshwater pearls are less likely to peel.