Secrets of Bonding Rabbits: Matchmaking for Bunnies, Part 3

Not Losing a Rabbit but Gaining a Bun
Your trusted rabbit bonder volunteer assures you that everything will be fine and you have an understanding and arrangement about what she should do in case of medical emergency. This would be a rare occurrence, especially if you've taken the precautions I outline in Part 1 of this series.

You will not be present at the bonding because the rabbits need to be in neutral territory. The reason for this is that rabbits, even if spayed or neutered, are territorial animals. They live in large social groups in the wild and so even in captivity, they have a very well developed sense of their space versus everyone else's. This doesn't mean they can't learn to share and that is what the bonding is all about - your bunny learning to share his life and space with another rabbit.

If you don't have an experienced rabbit bonder in your area and you have to do the bonding yourself, I will detail that as well. The rabbits should be placed in a part of the house where there are not any other rabbits. If you have to do your own bonding, this should be a part of the house your original bunny has never been in - even if it is the laundry room. Just be sure the room is bunny proofed and there aren't any chemicals the rabbits could get a hold of and ingest.

The Bunnymoon Suite
Here you will set up an x-pen that has been disinfected with bleach and then dried and wiped down with vinegar to completely eliminate any scent of another bunny. A small pen is usually best so that the rabbits are forced to share a small space. Provide a litter box, food and water bottles. You may need to add another litter box if there is a bit of early squabbling over the one.

The perfect setup for a bonding. A spacious x-pen with litter boxes and a hidey box (carrier). Neither rabbit has ever been in this room and there is a large parrot (off camera) to supervise.

Credit: Patti Henningsen

Copyright: Patti Henningsen