Antiques & Collectibles: Costume Jewelry

When you think of costumes do you envision someone in a fluffy red wig, red nose and shoes the size of a Lincoln Continental? Odds are your mind doesn’t immediately drift to costume jewelry. You would if you’ve been watching the market. Say “costume” and my mind conjures up images with a bit more sparkle in the form of rhinestones and pot metal: “costume jewelry” signed by the likes of Trifari, Coro and Napier.

Costume jewelry played the role of the lesser stepchild for those who could not afford “real” jewelry way back when. Somewhere along the line, the concept of costume jewelry changed and respect continues to grow for it as a collectible in its own right. While “real” jewelry may have more intrinsic value, and hold its value, because of the stones involved, costume jewelry has become valuable for its unique nature, trendy style and nostalgic feel. 

A funny thing happened along the way: this knock off jewelry became respected. Just as worn-out jeans from the ‘70s became coveted items in many parts of Europe, American dealers are finding collectors, particularly those abroad, are willing to pay above-average prices for what we once considered look-alike or trendy jewelry. 

So how does the average person know what is collectible? The most obvious sign is a signature on the back of the piece by the designer. Typically names you’ll spot include Schiaparelli, Napier, Marvella, Chanel, Trifari. Most of it falls into the “pretty trinket” or “hideously gaudy category”, but I recently found a Trifari pin listed in a price guide for over $2,000.