Penfolds Grange 1998: Wine Review
By Don Rainwater, published Apr 08, 2008
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Having been around since 1951, Penfolds Grange is truly a monster of a wine. Originally bottled only as an 87% Shiraz, 13% Cabernet combination, the wine is also available today as a 100% Cabernet option. The 1998 vintage is of the 87% Shiraz 13% Cabernet variety. The Shiraz grape, or "Syrah" as known outside of Australia, is a thick skinned, dark grape known for its potent flavors and aroma. For these reasons the Shiraz grape is often found blended with others, such as the Cabernet. The history of the Grange is quite interesting, as it was once considered a failed experiment. Now, original vintage bottles fetch up to $50,000 at auction. Even this more recent vintage is likely to cost a few hundred dollars.The Penfolds vineyards are the staple of Australian wine making. Having been founded back in 1844, the vineyards are rich with both heritage and the soil of many a classic vintage. The combination of the diverse climates in Australia contributes to making some of today's most cherished wines. While it was considered unorthodox at the time of its first vintage, Penfolds Grange uses fruit from many different vineyards in different areas and climates. This contributes to the extremely complex array of aromas, flavors and textures which make this wine a classic. For this and other reasons, the Grange is a wine which requires a medium to long term cellaring period.
Penfolds Grange 1998 is dark and densely colored, with the deepest red hues. The bouquet brings a dignified, cedary aroma on the nose. This is followed by a succession of other noble woody notes and an array of spices and the hint of plums ripening. The flavor opens immediately with a rush of ripe, buttery smooth fruit notes. These linger on the palate throughout, and also give way to a journey of tannin, vanilla and even chocolate hints. The spiciness climbs almost to peppery before resounding the velvety fruit of the Shiraz grape. This is truly a mammoth wine and delivers everything that its legend promises to the senses.
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