Touring Fes

Touring Fez is like being shot through a time machine. The back alleys are filled with centuries of slime, while the watercolor palate of dyed wool, thread and bird cages masks the insolvency of this sundried city in the African desert. The great novelist Amin Maalouf wrote of uncovering Fez's layers "...veil by veil, like a bride in her marriage chamber", and on first arrival to this ancient arabic city, many visitors do resemble that uneasy, diffident and veiled awkwardness of a first-timer. It would be the natural response to this overwhelmingly energized town. It's okay to be shy at first, but you need to be quick on your feet in order to truly enjoy a quick weekend trip to the carnival-like machine that is Fez, Morocco.

If you really want to get a feel for the Fassi life, you might consider taking a language lesson. Even a very short trip can afford you this little luxury. Loads of people come to Fes to study Arabic, so it's easy to sign up for one short class at the language center in the city center. After your morning language lesson head down to the medina for an early lunch. Kasbah has some of the best views of the medina, while the Medina Cafe is a great place for women who are traveling alone.

After lunch, get out and explore the Old Medina (Fes el-Bali) and start exploring. The medina is the most quiet and therefore pliable during the afternoon, so this is the best time to get your feet wet in this quirky maze. Search for Moroccan essentials like tagine pots and babouches as well as antiques and leather goods. Many people choose to hire a guide, which will cost about 250 dirhams, but it's perfectly safe and arguably more rewarding to just let yourself get lost. Just grab a good map or ask the shopkeeper's for guidance if you get lost.

While exploring the labyrinth, you'll want to make two important stops. There are two main alleys in old Fes, the Talaa Kebira and the Talaa Seghir. Both of these streets will take you to the main gate of Bab Bou Jeloud. The Bab Bou Jeloud itself is quite impressive, but it's the little restaurant square with rooftop dining that's most impressive.